Spring cruise 2015
-distance travelled approx. 570kms.
Vessel: M/Y Tamarind, Volharding Rijnland Cruiser 10.2 metres
Starting point Lage Zwaluwe 51.43 N 4.42 W River Amer, South
Holland
24thApril
Our cruise began before
we had even left the marina with festivities in the harbour and village of Lage
Zwaluwe where we had left the boat for the winter. The theme was the 1900s. The
whole thing was all the more enjoyable with our Dutch friends’ guidance. Luppe
bought some smoked eels for us to eat with our fingers. A messy but succulent
experience which Eric opted out of.
There was small gathering of old tug boats in the harbour as well as a hilarious tug of war on the water between two rowing boats attached by a line on the stern.
In the evening we set off
unescorted to our favourite bar cum restaurant. It felt good to be welcomed by
the Landlord who remembered us and bought us a drink on the house. It was good
to get to know some more locals.
We watched a small
procession of illuminated boats go past the balcony in the dusk.
The next evening there
was live music and pretty lively clientele. In fact we were inspired to dance too.
On this occasion we got
talking to the owners of the tug boat 'Harley D'. They were Anglophiles and we
encouraged them to visit North Yorkshire.
The next day was King's
Day..more celebrations! However, Eric and I had a quiet day -recovering. We had
a nice surprise with the marina bill. The owner did not charge us for returning
to the boat late! 3 weeks free mooring. Very generous.
April 28th 18 kms
We set off in a still
chilly wind a week after our return to the boat. During this time the trees had
burst into leaf and there was an abundance of spring flowers and blossom..
Everything on the boat
must be well secured as some of the wash from the often large and fast moving
traffic creates waves that can throw us around.
The following description
gives an idea of what it is like.
My
Watch
Soon after coming on watch I have a high
speed hovercraft water bus cutting across to the landing pier. Behind me is
another wanting to do the same. Meanwhile a fast moving work barge is
overtaking the now slowing waterbus. Tamarind is in the middle. The effect on
the boat is that she is tossed around in all directions but vaguely stays on
course helped by my steering. I keep
well to the side but not TOO near as some space is needed to deal with the
wash and anyway there is a backwash from the bank. Watching your back is also
extremely important! We change watch
every half hour.
Now it is Eric's Watch..I am sitting
in the saloon, feet up, watching the world go by. As we are on a busy stretch,
sometimes it is going by very fast.
Eric has two barges and a high speed
ferry coming towards him. Behind him there are also 2 x 3,000 ton barges and
yet another high speed Water bus. There is also a small traditional Dutch Boat
to pass.
It is like being at sea..except
there is more traffic.It's better than sitting at home watching TV.
This is a very familiar
harbour to us and we are remembered by the Harbourmaster. We moor in the shadow
of the old church which sounds a carillon on the
hour.
Dordrecht is the oldest
city in Holland (which is the south part of the Netherlands).
It is a wonderful place
to wander round. Fabulous old grand and small houses, some of them seeming to
defy gravity. A harbour full of traditional tall ships and old sailing barges.
Quaint little lifting
bridges, a buzzing shopping centre. Centuries of history AND one of our
favourite Eet cafes..Cafe Passant. A meal there has to be part of our cruise.
The proprietor always asks where we are off to next.
This year we plan to wander south. But not yet.
1st May 20kms
We feel like an early start and are off through the first bridge at 08.30 turning East along the Merwede. It continues to be busy but there is the Biesbosch a wild wooded area on our starboard side which reminds us of more peaceful cruising ahead.
The 20 kms we intend to travel to
Gorinchem, pronounced Horkham, takes us 3 hours. We have to lock in and coming
into the harbour the first thing we see is the tug boat 'Harley D' last seen in
Lage Zwaluwe just a week ago.
1st May 20kms
We feel like an early start and are off through the first bridge at 08.30 turning East along the Merwede. It continues to be busy but there is the Biesbosch a wild wooded area on our starboard side which reminds us of more peaceful cruising ahead.
This is the first of
several towns in this area which have a specific defensive shape with water and
dykes in a particular pattern.
At the end of a wander we
find somewhere to sit in the large square and find ourselves next to 'the tug
boat' people! We enjoy their company and when we part they tell us to look them
up when we're down their way.
Returning to the boat
normal cruise pattern continues. Sitting out in the spring sunshine enjoying a
drink whilst watching people, craft and birdlife. The latter on this occasion
are two coots building their nest on the stern platform of a boat marked 'For Sale' .
3rd May 17kms
3rd May 17kms
We only have a short stretch of the busy Merwede before the turn onto the Afgemamde Maas. However, we still have to contend with the wash of two Double barges length approx. 500 ft!
The remainder of the
passage was very peaceful...cattle
drinking from the river. Lock gates so slow to close that I had time make a cup
of tea. The wind was increasing throughout the day. By the time we reached
Heusden three hours later the simplest
way to moor up was to get the bow line on and drive her in.
This town is a perfectly
preserved example of the defensive design.The office was a landing craft with
U.S ARMY still written on the hull.
This is a poignant time
of year in the Netherlands. 4th May is Remembrance Day followed by Liberation
Day on 5th.
We cycle round the
ancient streets. National flags are on many houses at half mast.
A small lifting bridge is
at the harbour mouth with two wooden windmills nearby. It is very picturesque
In the Eetcafe
overlooking the harbour we enjoy a meal. The beamed ceiling has many artefacts
and an array of musical instruments.
Here we meet Martin, a local Englishman who
also invites us to call if we return.We really like this place so spend three
nights here. During this time there is a gale and the high winds continue.
May 6th 37 kms
Back to where we started from...at some speed ( for us) as the river is flowing quite fast. We took three and a half hours. Lage Zwaluwe has an excellent chandlery and we need a pipe replacing on the toilet. What with the wind against 'tide', the passing traffic and the weather it is quite a bouncy ride and includes a hailstorm that really reduces visibility.
On arrival Eric commences
to wrestle with the toilet pipe which is awkward to get at and virtually welded
on.
May 7th
First thing, Eric checks
that the engine is still well attached to the boat after all that chucking
around. Then I go of on the bike for a 'quick' shop at the local supermarket
about 25 minutes ride away. Sadly I forget the padlock key. It is only when I
go to unlock the bike that I realise. The good news is that my purse contains
our mobile number .Bad news for Eric… he has to bring the key.
We're off again along the
Hollandse Diep before 11 A.M. More head into wind and busy with shipping. At
least the Sun is shining. Two hours late we are in another small attractive
star shaped town -Willemstad. Unfortunately so are 15 charter boats in some
sort of gathering. So instead of the harbour we go alongside the wall in the
marina. Time to enjoy some bitterballen which are hot savoury balls in
breadcrumbs at the cafe.
May 8th 31kms
Once through the lock
appointed for small barges and pleasure craft (the other two are for larger
vessels) we are out on the open water of the Hollands Diep. Thankfully there is
no wind. The land is featureless and low lying. Great for sailing. It is
possible to travel outside the fairway so we are free from the disturbance of
the large vessels....until we turn onto the canal helpfully signposted Antwerp.
May 9th 47kms
We wake to Force 6 but as
we will be cruising along the Canal with trees to protect us we are not put
off. We are away by 08.10. Correction....almost away! We need to ‘spring off’
to get away from the pontoon. This entails taking the line leading from the bow
back to a fitting on the jetty half way down the length of the boat. The
helmsman can then drive the boat forward which as the boat is still attached
makes the stern come away from the mooring. The boat can then be reversed out
letting go of the mooring line at the last moment. All goes well until the
spring catches the last half metre round the lug of the pontoon fitting.
Fortunately Eric understands my shout and reacts quickly.
As the boat nears the pontoon again I am able
to flick the line off the fitting before the wind pushes us back against the
jetty. We get away with only losing a small amount of paint. Phew.
By 10.15 Belgium was
heralded by wall to wall smoke belching industry all along the horizon.
At the Noordland bridge Eric had to call up the Antwerp harbour authorities to let them know our destination. We also had to be given a number so that we were accounted for. This part of the trip took at least an hour and a half. A Dutch friend had given us the local chart for the docks which is just as well. They seemed to go on forever. Fortunately the shipping is not too busy.
However we need two eyes
to the helm, two to the chart and four watching out for traffic.
It is with some relief that we finally reach
the lifting bridges for Willem dock. 5 hrs of strong wind on the beam and
constant vigilance take their toll. No way are we going sightseeing today.
May 10th
Today we cycled into
central Antwerp –and thought we were still in the Netherlands, which of course
the town was for centuries. This is why they speak Dutch. Beautiful
architecture, magnificent town hall.
A Thai festival was in progress, dancing in
the streets, a brilliant jazz band and an ethnic market. Later we took a city
bus tour. A memorable sight was a man with four children on the one bicycle!
The next day Monday, we
received an email saying the hospital had a cancellation and Eric could have a
knee op. in York on Friday, with a pre op assessment the day before. Somehow we were ready for the ferry from Rotterdam the
next day!
May 20th
Back on board for the
cruise to recommence. We had left the power on so that the fridge contents would
not be wasted and we could eat on board on our return.
Antwerp onwards
May 22nd Distance covered 57 kms.
We are again in the mood for an early start
and take the first bridge at 08.30. lt took us 2 hours to come through the
docks and there is a major hold up at the Kreekkrak lock as only one of two is
working. Each lock is 320 metres long. We
wait 2 hours before being squeezed in the last available 15 metre space behind
six ships with another pleasure boat rafted to us.
We
intend to visit Zeeland so after the next lock, the Bergse Diep, we are in tidal open water. Our boat has not
sailed in tidal waters for years and except on the Ijsselmeer navigation has
been fairly basic.
"Lay a course for Yerseke" says
Eric. Can I remember how? Slowly it comes back to me. The chart shows that it
is fairly shallow. We decide on a
waypoint and off we go. As we get nearer we can see through the binoculars that
worryingly the water ahead is becoming much lighter. There is even a sandbank
which is not on the chart. We check our position. There should be enough water
but one bump and we are quickly into reverse and aiming for darker water and
marked channel.
We have no echo sounder and but we only draw
one metre and the charts tell us the depth - normally. It seems a very long way
round. It is well into the afternoon before we reac h Yerseke. On arrival we
are pleased to find the harbour bar and enjoy talking to the owner who is an ex
deep sea fisherman.
The next
day I spoke about our passage to Yerseke with the young woman in the harbour
office. She tells me that the harbour has asked
for an updated chart as people
have regularly run aground and there is
a new chart coming out this year.
Close call --didn't like it. However, it
was some compensation that it was not
the navigating.
We enjoyed Yerseke.It was
the start of a holiday weekend. There was a market and a crazy bareback horse
riding competition dating back to mediaeval times.( Not a riding hat in sight).
The rider had to put a handheld stick through a small ring dangling from a
frame ...at a gallop. The horses were beautifully turned out with plaited manes
and tails decorated in different ways
May 24th Distance
covered 10 kms
Continuing
west along the Oosterschelde on a beautiful sunny morning, it took us an hour
to reach the Goes Sas lock to enter the small canal up to the attractive harbour
of Goes (pronounced Hoos) 5 kms further
on. There was a convenient restaurant on the harbour for us to sit and soak up
the Sun, a drink and some bitterballen. It was sunbathing weather on yet
another holiday weekend, so we relaxed on board taking in our wonderful
surroundings until it was time to explore the town square and watched the World
go by. There was a huge boot sale in the market on holiday Monday. I came home
with an excellent jacket and rugby shirt.
May 26th Distance
covered 29kms
Out on to
the Oosterschelde again and another short hop round the corner through the lock
into the Veerse Meer. The tide was with us which was a bonus. It was another
lovely day with a cool breeze. We planned to tie up at one of the mooring
points marked along the mere so I could have my first sail in 'Gofer' our 2.5
metre tender. A quick lunch and I was off in open water. Wehay!
The breeze was ideal for a first sail. Pity I
hadn't arranged with Eric to meet him further on....I had to come back.
May 27th 34 kms
We were away at 09.00 and it was a perfect
still spring morning. Alone on a vast
expanse of water with just the sound of the birds.
It was so calm I decided to risk washing the
windows. The whole boat had got really dirty coming through Antwerp docks in a
gale. Add to that the salt spray. I had been going to wait a few days until we
were back in fresh water. We were lucky to catch the lock so no waiting and we
were out on to the Oosterschelde by 11.15. Over the next hour and a half the
weather deteriorated with cloud and increasing wind. Lots of spray.....so much
for the windows. Why DID I bother?
We went under the vast Zeelandbrug which joins
Duiverland to Noord Beveland. Constructed between 1963 and 1965 it is the
longest bridge in the Netherlands, consists of 48 spans and is 5,022 metres
long. The movable part is 40 metres wide to allow shipping through.
On
arrival we aim, as usual, for the town harbour and are lucky to get a space
close to the historic lifting bridge and the towering old prison.
May 28th
May 30th 34 kms
The wind had been increasing with very heavy
showers but the forecast was better today and thinking we could always turn
back we set off at 09.00. Out on the Oosterschelde it was very bumpy until our
course altered to port when we could motor in the lee of the land. We only got
caught in one brief downpour before we were making for the Grevelingen sluis
beside Bruinisse into which fortunately we went straightaway behind some other
boats.
We received a cheery welcome from the
harbourmaster. In fact everybody was very friendly here, particularly as it was
a club and they were staffed by volunteers. There was a good sailing breeze in
the harbour area although too many waves
on the mere, so I had a couple of sails during the day. In the evening the club
was open. We chatted with Imperer who was a retired seaman as well as lifeboat
crew and sailor. There were a few pennants hanging up and as Eric had recently
replaced the R.N.S.A. pennant he asked if the club would like it. They seemed
to like the idea and Imperer came round the following day for a coffee to
collect it, bringing their club pennant in exchange. After that and a trip to
the club washing machine we hunkered down to watch old films as the rain and
wind swirled around us.
Tomorrow we are on open water so we again
enjoyed the novelty of laying a course.
June 1st 11 kms
A dramatic sunrise in red and orange but today
it did not herald bad weather. The water was like a mill pond. It was only 2
nautical miles between the two locks we had to go through but it took an hour
and a half. Another mile took us to the start of the narrow channel up to Oude
Tonge.
We were
really glad we had taken the trouble to lay a course for our two short passages
between locks and the channel. It looks so straightforward on the chart but
with so much shallow water around and changing tides it is much more difficult
to see the way than you think- and that is in good visibility.
During the passage I dropped a fender from which I was
cleaning weed collected at the lock, so
Eric had a practice ' man overboard' to
pick it up.
Once we entered the channel there were
increasingly more water fowl of various breeds some with young, both in the air
and in the water.
The small harbour of Oude Tonge was very
peaceful and relaxing.
Later we went for a quick trip to the
supermarket which was up many stairs. Thinking of Eric's recently operated on
knee we took the lift. Once we were inside we pressed the button but it didn't
move, so we made to open the door except it wouldn't open. There we were
-stuck. There was a lot of coming and going of various people, telephone calls
and helpful suggestions. Eventually a guy with some knowhow arrived and we were
released after a further 10 minutes. I think we were trapped for about an hour
in all. It didn't do Eric's knee any good.
This town was one of the worst affected in the
floods of 1953.
305
people died when the dyke gave way. 65 in one street.
I discovered this, cycling round. I also found
a windmill dated 1748 and a memorial plaque to the 7 crew of a Lancaster bomber
that crash landed here in 1944.
We had a cheap and cheerful meal at the
Eatcafe and expected to leave in the morning having checked the forecast....which
turned out to be rubbish as we were woken by gale force winds and rain. So -
lie in. Full English brunch, occupying ourselves by watching the test match
while one cooked a curry and t'other dealt with some mould caused by
condensation.
June 2-4th 44 kms
The sun is out. Could this be summer? We had
easy passages Eastwards for 25 kms to reach Lage Zwaluwe, stopping a night at
Numansdorp on the way. We invited our friend Allard over and had a summery
evening meal on deck. Asparagus followed by seafood salad, cheese and finally
strawberries and cream. We arranged to meet him and his wife Luppe in their
boat the following afternoon at a mooring in the Biesbosch.
The Biesbosch is a national park. The name
means rush woods. These had grown on the silt from two rivers. As the land
became higher, willows began to grow so withy -beds were planted giving two
means of making a living. After the flood disaster of 1953 the Biesbosch was
changed permanently by locks. Tidal movement was reduced significantly. Shallow
lagoons developed in large parts of the area. Today it covers 12,000 hectares.
It has wild flowers and animals. There are about 200 beavers who play an
important role by cutting down trees which allows other trees to grow The
beavers also eat stinging nettles. Birds thrive in this pesticide and fertilizer
free area. There is an increase in small mammals which in turn encourages birds
of prey.
A wonderful place too for boats of all sorts,
from exploring tiny creeks in canoes to sailing dinghies and mooring or
anchoring with larger craft.
June 5th 6 kms
Our first
really warm day. We were at our agreed mooring spot by 10.15. It got hotter as
the day went on. I went for a sail to cool down in a flukey light wind and came
back even hotter. I would have liked to jump in but it is difficult to climb
back on board. Fortunately the cavalry arrived...Allard and Luppie in 'Sterde
Maid'. They had just finished work, were dying for a swim AND they had a
boarding ladder. What bliss.
We heard that a storm was forecast for the
evening. You could see it coming and we were going to be beam on. We put out
extra lines. It was really strong. It was going to be a noisy evening, but was
immediately cooler , which was a blessing as I was cooking......until the gas
ran out! Fortunately the fury of the wind abated soon after, as it would have
been very tricky changing the gas bottle. We only got wet in the rain. At last,
lines sorted, dinghy moved, gas changed we settled down to enjoy the meal. Eric
got a reprieve on the washing up as our friends appeared with Dutch coffee in a
flask and Amaretto and Oude Jonge to accompany it, while the rain lashed down. Later
we retired to bed with earplugs in place. The slapping of water on the hull and
the roaring wind didn't keep us awake.
The next morning as soon as there was a space
we moved 'Tamarind' head into the wind. The wind remained fresh
and the sun shone. Excellent for sailing. I was off before breakfast ( sounds good
except we only got up about 10.30). Later I had another go. I wanted to explore
so I took a VHF radio as I would be out of sight. However, that didn' t happen
because as soon as I rounded the corner there was no wind. I turned back and
came to a stop with a lurch. Too shallow. It was quite tricky to restart.
I got the centreboard up but although I got
going I soon stopped again. The wind was driving me on. Eventually I sorted
myself out. The wind had increased and it was a lively exciting sail tacking
back to the boat. After a relaxing day we went for a de luxe BBQ on board
Sterde Meide with Allard and Luppe thus ending a perfect day.
June 7th 26 kms
A calm and sunny start. We decided to leave at
10.30. We took one of the channels through the Biesbosch to reach the River
Merwede which took about an hour and a half. A short stint along this busy
commercial waterway brought us again to the lock for the town of Gorinchem
Gorinchem harbour is overlooked by historic houses. At one end is the lock and the other a bridge adorned with a blaze of summer flowers. Most of the moorings are 'boxes' which can be tricky to moor in but we aim for one alongside some steps. It was warm and sunny. A visiting yachtsman played various styles of music on a keyboard. He sounded professional. Shame about his companion who started to sing (flat) to his accompaniment. It went on a long time.
There is a market on Monday selling fresh
produce. A good opportunity to practice my Dutch. The fish looked wonderful. I
managed to ask for a taste of a cheese. The stall had a wonderful selection.
What next? Dried fruit. It all look so good that I bought cranberries and
bossen berries ( fruits of the forest) as well as apricots
and prunes. I managed to ignore the smell of fresh roasted nuts. Finishing up
with fruit and veg. I tracked down Eric in a café. Shopping has to be carefully
judged to our carrying capacity of the day. No rucksacks on this occasion so we
filled the two boxes on the back of our bikes.
We were a bit low on water so best to fill
while we could. This is a good moment to do hand washing of clothes before we
start refilling. So apart from the bikes (which have been left behind on one
occasion ) we were ready to go in the morning.
June 9th 22 kms
10.10 Eric is convinced that 'Tamarind' will get under the two low bridges
through the town to save us going round. We have checked the height in the
Almanac which is compulsory for all cruisers to have in the Netherlands. This
is useful for bridge and lock times. It also gives information about fuel,
water and moorings...in Dutch. However, names and numbers can be read. Although
some of the bridge names are tricky over the VHF- try Bolgerijensebrug! We creep towards the first one and all is
well by about 4 cms. The second one looms. It seems lower to me. In fact I duck
as before ( no option) but also close my eyes and wait for the scrape on the
windscreen. " 2 cms." Says Eric. Next time we are going round.
It was an
interesting route along the Merwede canal. Mixed agriculture with grazing cattle,
sheep and horses.
June 10th 16kms
Boat maintenance morning for Eric. Museum for me. We left for our 'short' trip to
Utrecht at 12.30. Lucky with the first lock, we joined a queue of one barge and
several pleasure craft with no waiting.
The barge turned onto the River Lek whilst the
little flotilla whizzed across the busy waterway to the Koningensluis, which is
a lock opening into the continuation of the Merwede canal little used by barges as there are two huge locks 200 metres long
half a mile away.
Quelle horreur! We were met by two red
lights.......CLOSED. There was a large sign about renovation of the lock. The
flotilla milled about like so many distraught ants. After a lot of shoulder
shrugging we all changed course for the large locks. More problems here.
Several ship- sized barges, some with
engines running, were queuing up. The two lead small craft went in amongst
this. One seemed unaware of a barge coming up behind him -until the barge
sounded his horn.
Eric and I have been through this lock before.
We decided on tying up out of the way and contacting the lock on the given VHF
channel. We were told that we would probably have to wait 4 hours BUT we could
use the one we had just come from as it had apparently now opened. So off we go
again just in time to join 2 barges in the Koningen lock. We were already
delayed by an hour. Everything took forever. We ate lunch in the lock and then
proceeded to creep along having to hang back at the following 4 bridges until
thankfully the barges turned onto the Amsterdam Rhine canal. There was another delay of half an hour at the next lock. At
this point it was 15.15. I was ready to throw in the towel- gazing longingly at
a quiet backwater. However, Eric wanted
to be in Utrecht and said he would helm and I should go below with a cup of
tea.
6 lifting bridges later we emerged on to the
last pretty but tricky passage through the centre of old Utrecht. There are 17
low bridges of..3.5 metres
in 1700 metres. Some on bends, all narrow and
one is a curving tunnel (we
met a pedalo here on our first visit). The canal is lined with plane trees and
cafes. The latter are full of people relaxing in the sun hoping for a drama. As
there are pedalos and canoes often out of control, this is fairly likely. In
fact we met a canoe which did not stop at a bridge. We missed. At last we reach
the moorings and tied up at 16.30
June 11th
Here I had an opportunity to use the launderette
but NOT have a shower. We have never managed to shower in this major city. We
have visited tiny places ...always all facilities. Apparently we come at the
wrong time of year. Our friend Lucilla
arrived in the evening and we went straight from the station to a blues café
for dinner.
June 12th 16 kms
My turn to take Tamarind through the 17 tiny bridges. When we were opposite the pedalo depot there were four girls returning to it within a few metres of the base. For some reason they decided to reverse coming straight into our path. We were going slowly but I had to put ' Tamarind' into reverse in order to avoid hitting them. The cafe watchers must have loved it.
“Only a few steps” to Vianen and apart from that the trip was uneventful. It
took 3 hours instead of the previous 4. Lucilla's nephew and 8 year old son
came over. He came out in 'Gofer' with me and managed to learn to row.
A
thunderstorm threatened and was forecast . It was extremely hot. We would have loved the
windows open overnight but couldn't risk it.
In the ensuing short tunnel which has a bend in it we came across a two man canoe.
June 13th 25 kms.
A straightforward passage back along the
Merwede canal to Gorinchem. Eric managed to squeeze us into our favourite spot in the harbour. I got talking to
some Aussies on 'Atlantis' a 10 metre Dutch cruiser, and
invited them on board. Denise and Anthony proved to be an entertaining
couple. They are planning to go south to France. Eric was able to show them
some charts and answered their questions.
June 14
th
A relaxing
meander back to Heusden. We borrowed the harbour bike so we could all cycle in.
We were greeted by a brass band. It was a music festival .The sun was shining
and we settled ourselves at a table overlooking the full harbour and enjoyed
the fun, sights, varied music and some bitterballen. Again!
June 15 th 29 kms
It looked a grey blustery day and we were
bound once more for the National Park of the Biesbosch. We could always change
the plan. However, as the morning wore on the sun came out and thankfully there
was still a sailing breeze. Eric chose our anchorage in a quiet backwater with
plenty of space to sail.
Lucilla,
who was a Sea ranger with me a few years ago, was mad enough to come sailing in ' Gofer' with me. It was a
bit of a squeeze two people in a 2.5
metre dinghy. Each time we tacked we swapped helm. We survived but had a close
call when going nicely ran aground (
what again?). Up with the centreboard.
Out with the paddle. We managed to relaunch ourselves without getting our feet wet . The wind increased until we had waves so
we thought it best to call it a day. The anchor on 'Tamarind'
began to snatch in the stronger wind so we opted to find the mooring
jetty marked a couple of kilometres further on.
It turned out to be an idyllic spot.
We entertained ourselves watching two courting
Grebes, nesting swans and other birds. I
got in an exciting sail and after dinner we settled down to enjoy the setting
sun to the sound of Beethoven and Wagner.
June 16th 20 kms
We had an early breakfast being entertained by
the antics of the waterfowl which were
either being amorous or aggressive The Cob saw off a coot busy bodying too near
the nest in the rushes. We were not in a hurry and were delighted to spot a
deer and her fawn taking a drink among the reeds. Eric turned the boat and our
resident professional photographer, Lucilla, managed to get a few shots in
before they climbed the bank.
This delay caused us to miss the lock which
apparently closed at 09.00 , despite calling him up and being there at 08.55.
It reopened at 11.00. So fenders and the deck got washed , curtains mended,
etc. All the boring jobs that are usually ' manaña'. We moved out of the Bisebosch turning west
onto the wide River Merwede for 7 kms before turning north through the
Ottersluis onto the River Wantij about 6 kms from Dordrecht where we arrived at
13.45. Such a beautiful city. We said goodbye to Lucilla here after a fabulous
steak at the Eet Cafe Passant.
June 18 th 33 kms.
10.00 start for our passage to Gouda ( where
better to go if you're low on cheese) out amongst the seriously large craft on
the Canal Noord crossing the River Lek to reach the River Hollandse Ijssel dotted with thatched houses which takes us the
last 19kms. Through the Mallaget sluis into
However, we carry on through a couple of
lifting bridges to moor in the shade of the trees on Katsingel. Eric's son
Gavin is arriving and this is conveniently near the station. We were lucky to
get a space....in fact we only had two thirds of the boat alongside the jetty.
Apparently there is a traditional boat gathering and party this weekend.
Whoopee.
June 19th
We seem to be wandering into all sorts of
celebrations. There are shanties tonight for the start of fish and ships
festival. I went to the library to print our air tickets. They had such a
complicated anti scam system that the staff were struggling with it as well!
Gavin and
I enjoyed walking all round Gouda including the festivities. We met Eric at the
lock and while we were munching on pancakes as a horse drawn boat passed by on
the road carrying passengers. Later we saw a white coach and pair. In the
evening we listened to a couple of good bands alongside the canals. Folding
tables and benches provided the crowd with seating with extra bars set up for
the thirsty.
June 21st 21 kms
An early start to beat the 'rush' and the
rain. The second lock -Waaierschut- is according to the lock keeper, unique.
Invented in about 1870 it allows barges that are longer than the lock to pass
through. It is still used today for this purpose .The water is tidal. When the
water is at the same level on each side of the lock , it is possible to open
both gates allowing the barge through.
It is a very short period and the only way the lock can be closed is by
using a third 15 ton gate in the middle which is shut by the force of the water
fed into a side chamber. Once this is done the second set of gates can be
closed.
The weather was mostly heavy showers. We
wandered along the Hollander IJssel for a couple of hours reaching the village
Oudewater by 11.00 coffee time. We made our way in full wet gear to an inviting
cozy cafe. Warmed up ...this is JUNE.....by hot chocolate and coffee. Dodging the torrential showers we found our
way to the Rope museum. They have been making Hemp rope here since the middle
ages. The factory now uses many other materials and , of course, it is all
mechanised. The same family owned it for generations. It was only sold a few
years ago because the family had no descendants. I already knew the town was famous in the
middle ages for weighing people who had been accused of witchcraft. Suspects
came from far and wide and left with a certificate ( for a small fee, no doubt) saying they
were innocent. Gavin and I, following a map with the village history, wandered
about. We spotted a stork nesting on the roof of the town hall.
That night ,Gavin took us out to dinner. The
place was traditionally Dutch with dark wood and interesting artefacts as well
as good food.
June 22
30kms
Bad weather continues. There are many lifting
bridges and a couple of locks to pass through as well as the 17 in Utrecht
centre. We leave as soon as the first bridge is open at 9A.M and arrive at
13.00.
A couple of occasions there is no radio
channel or camera to announce our arrival at the bridges. Whoever is on the
helm has to nose the boat up to a post about 5 metres from the bridge with a
push button the size of a 50 pence piece. Sometimes this can be done with a
boathook. Good boat handling practice, especially if there is much of a wind.
Family visitors for the day led us to take them
under the bridges. We moored by the tree lined walk on the other side of town.
June
24 th
Goodye to Gavin, hello washing, shopping and
engine maintenance. Also good weather.
Tomorrow is to be a day off...a bit like
"free beer tomorrow" we manage to relax in the sun until Eric gets a
bit restless around 15.00. "We could just go the ‘short hop’ to Vianen you
can steer.." that's 10 lifting bridges and 2 locks ..at the second lock there
was a hold up which turned out to be convenient as we remembered our friends
had told us you could buy gas nearby. It was touch and go whether we could buy
the gas before the lock opened but it worked out o.k. The weather was really
hot by the time we arrived so we opted for no cooking knowing there was an
'Italian' nearby. We sat in the cafe garden next to the water wondering why all
these people were walking by. Many of them had flowers. Apparently it was the
annual 10 km walk for the primary school children which is held over 4 days.
This was the last, hence the flowers and 5 bands. It looked as if the whole
town was on the march.
June 25th
July1st
Thankfully
the good weather continues, in fact it is so hot every hatch, door and window
are open, with fans operating at both ends of the boat.
We take the waterbus ( aah wonderful breeze)
to Amblasserdam, a National Heritage site of 20 windmills previously used for
pumping water.
We set off early to visit the other end of the
Biesbosch along the Wantij, through the lock across the Merwede entering
another lock a couple of kilometres
along which is the gateway to the peace of the National Park. A new
International visitor's centre has been opened with some moorings. An
innovative building with the roof covered in grass. We were really interested
but a little disappointed that everything was in Dutch.
We move
on ...CAREFULLY... And find a mooring with several boats, two of which have
families and friends who have met for a BBQ. Belinda and I opted for a swim. Someone from
the boats kindly suggested using their boat for a swimming platform as they had
an underwater step to ease getting out. The swim was wonderful. The water so
soft. A bonus was that our hair was soft and shiny when it dried. I should have
bottled some. Megan, my granddaughter went for a row.
Later with Belinda, she discovered a hidden mooring through the trees. We all thought it was worth moving- which proved providential as a a storm was brewing. As the weather clouds and increasing wind, all the other boats left. We retreated inside to enjoy Belinda's cooking. Later the weather cleared and we explored the area by foot and discovering a 'renovated' hut with a description on the wall explaining that this would have been the sort of dwelling for people working here. Eric had stayed behind listening to music and we heard it long before we got on board.
Later with Belinda, she discovered a hidden mooring through the trees. We all thought it was worth moving- which proved providential as a a storm was brewing. As the weather clouds and increasing wind, all the other boats left. We retreated inside to enjoy Belinda's cooking. Later the weather cleared and we explored the area by foot and discovering a 'renovated' hut with a description on the wall explaining that this would have been the sort of dwelling for people working here. Eric had stayed behind listening to music and we heard it long before we got on board.
July 6th
Belinda's birthday. We made an early start in
order to reach Dordrecht in time for lunch. We were diverted by seeing a vast
elegance of swans on the horizon, there must have been a hundred of them. We
moved closer to take in such a beautiful early morning sight. A birthday gift.
Belinda took the wheel as we retraced our passage of the previous day. We made
sure she knew what to do in case of touching the bottom. 5 minutes later she
had to put it into practice! The three of us sat in the bow and went through
the procedure.
Eventually we got going again. It seemed like
ages, but in fact we arrived at the lock just as it opened for the day. We had
lunch in La Place on the roof of a department store. There are several food
bars where you can choose from a varied selection of hot and cold food. The hot
is prepared as you wait. This was followed by one of those delicious summer
fruit concoctions in a glass.
We had dinner at a little Italian restaurant
that we knew. The proprietor, Hercule from Calabria, was quite a character. At
the end of the meal when all the customers had gone, he sang and chatted to
Belinda in Italian. He had a wonderful voice. We left with the customary roses
he presented to all the female clients. It was an entertaining evening as well
as an enjoyable meal. It was a fitting
end to our spring cruise as the next day our visitors were leaving and Eric and
I were taking the boat to her summer base.
TROPHIES Most
cruises we manage to find something for nothing which is useful for the boat.
Over the years we have picked up several fenders, including a large ball fender,
caught in the reeds, from the sailing dinghy. Last year it was a Director's
chair which needed a small repair to the seat, found by the recycling bin. This
year it was a height adjustable swivelling
bar stool perfect for a helmsman's chair and a metre of new lino perfect
for reflooring the heads.
The Skipper
