Pelagia’s cruise 2017
part four Menorca to Alicante
Leaving Mahon harbour after a few days was quite sad as we had
enjoyed it tremendously but with our latest crew on board, Beverley and Ann, it
was time to move on. The first leg was to be about 40 miles across to Mallorca.
Once out of the long harbour and having waited for a Costa cruise ship to enter
we set sail for the south east corner of Menorca in a pleasant following wind.
Having sailed between the main island and the offlying Isle de Bel Aire
we set course west. The wind remained astern and stable so we set the cruising
chute and sailed gently for the next three hours. The wind then died to a
whisper and we had to motor the remaining half of the way to Cala Ratjada
harbour, a logged trip of 46.2 miles. As we entered we were waved to a berth
on the outer harbour mole and it was obvious that a swell was rolling in the
harbour and all the boats were rolling from side to side. Where such a swell
was coming from was a mystery as the wind did not seem strong enough to cause
it, however it rolled all night but a little less by morning. The town was
pleasant with reasonable facilities and the harbour staff friendly. It was
incredibly hot behind the harbour wall and we all sat in the harbour side bar
with a beer until the sun started to sink.
A shorter trip the next day took us south west along the
coast of Mallorca . Firstly we sailed but the early breeze died and we motored.
A breeze came up on our beam about midday and we started to sail beautifully.
The breeze gradually came further south and we had to put in two tacks to sail
to our destination of Porto Colom where we had sailed 25 miles although the log
was stuck again so did not record. I had chosen this place because of the
enclosed nature of the bay where no swell should get in. The entrance was enchanting
with fine houses and a stately lighthouse opening on a beautiful if somewhat
crowded bay. A club Nautico boat and sailor met us and informed us we could not
anchor as we wished but could use their buoys for mooring which was simple and
easy and we were soon moored in a most delightful spot. It was very sheltered,
calm and good swimming in the water which was now 26 degrees. We intended to
push on the next day but decided to stay another day and explore the town
especially as we could get the club boat to give us a lift ashore for free.
Also we met another Hallberg Rassy owner moored next to us who was sadly now
alone after his partner recently died and he told us how nice the place was
when we shared a gin and tonic with him on our boat. We spent the second
day walking to the local town and church which was being bedecked with netting
decoration for their forthcoming festival of the boats service. More swimming
occupied the afternoon to cool us down again.
Leaving Porto Colom the next morning there was a lively
north easterly wind and we ran down the coast with the Genoa sail giving us
good speed in the somewhat turbulent sea and force five to six winds. The first
fifteen miles was all with the Genoa set on one side but the wind was such that
we were getting set in towards the coast as we approached Salinas point. We
carefully steered the yacht so that we avoided having to gybe just before the
point and still stayed clear of the shallows . As we came round the point the
wind was more on the beam and we ran up the coast with the wind gradually dying
towards Rapita. We had been told that berths were difficult to get in this
marina at this time of year and we certainly could not raise anybody on the
radio so we went in and tied alongside a signed waiting pontoon. It was some
time before a marinero came and ordered us out saying we would have to anchor
outside until 4 p.m. then radio for a berth. The anchorage was a bit exposed
and uncomfortable and we also needed a supermarket so we hoped we could get a
berth later. Sure enough at 4 p.m. we were told to come in and were given a
berth tied stern to the quay right at the harbour entrance. This was not easy
or particularly comfortable as the now strong wind was blowing straight in on
our beam. At least we berthed without a hitch whilst a Swiss boat coming in
later alongside made a right hash of it and had no ropes or fenders prepared
and all four persons on board seemed to have little idea what to do. With our
crew and the marineros it all ended safely. However, we had a nights
berth and we could shop even if the fee was the highest we had paid to date!
The showers were very good so that made up for a lot. Rapita looked to be a
very modern and unappealing place so it was good to leave early.
Another 20 mile sail was planned next up to El Arenal bay
which is part of the great bay of Palma. We had little wind on the way but when
we came to anchor the sea breeze set in and made it rather lumpy. The backdrop
of town along the coast was continuous blocks of houses and hotels in high rise
stretched along the wide sandy beach. At least we had plenty to watch as
the sea thronged with water sports . The highlight was to see one of the
Americas Cup catamarans racing up and down the bay sometimes up out of the water
on its winged keel. There were also kite surfers alarming us by their desire to
go so close to our rigging even though they were very good. A windsurfer also
had a board with a keel such that it would ride up out of the water and
fly at an incredible speed. The wind died at night and we were calm but a bit
rolly all night.
Another 20 miles the next day across the bay of Palma took us to Santa
Ponsa bay where a very sheltered anchorage allowed us to enjoy swimming and
relaxing in fairly beautiful surroundings albeit with many other yachts.
I had decided on this bay as our last relaxing point in Mallorca because
it was only five miles from Andraix port and we needed to get a berth in there
as our last leaving place from Mallorca and we had to shop and water up for the
trip to Ibiza. Again It is said to be near impossible to get a berth but we
arrived early and got a good berth in the yacht Club. This again was eye
wateringly expensive but it had excellent showers and a swimming pool included!
We left at first light for Ibiza island heading for a marina on
the south east coast, a trip of about 60 miles. The wind was mostly easterly
starting at force five to six but gradually easing during the day to force
four. It was a stupendous sail and we made good time of about 10 hours. We
hoped again that we could get a berth as the bay outside was very lumpy and
after tying up at the reception quay we were granted a suitable berth in Santa
Eulalia harbour. The prices in Ibiza island were even higher than in Mallorca,
but what options did we have. The town was a very scruffy heavily built up area
and we did not wish to explore too much. The aim was to do the 10 miles
on to Ibiza town the next day where we hoped to get a berth to explore the
beautiful old town of Ibiza. The sea conditions had deteriorated significantly
overnight and we had a very wet bumpy ride downwind to Ibiza town. Apart from
three cruise ships and many ferries in the harbour there were a plethora of
other motor boats and yachts manoeuvring around. I called the marina for a
berth, having received no reply to my e mailed request the previous day. After
a long wait it was confirmed we could have a berth in 10 minutes time !
Oh what joy! Whilst waiting for our time to go in we heard yachts pleading for
berths on the radio even resorting to stories of sick crew and run out of
water, all to no avail they were told all berths were full. Once we got berthed
up the next shock was the price. I thought I might have to take out a
mortgage on the boat to pay the fee! How all the huge motor boats and
yachts pay this extortionate amount we did not know, but it is certainly a
place for the rich and famous.
Ibiza old town is very beautiful and walking the walls within the old
fortress and wandering through the narrow cobbled streets is a treat that made
it worth the money as well as having a tasty Spanish style lunch served amongst
the tree covered walkways.
We had to leave the marina before 12 the next day or risk another
extortionate fee and the marinero was around to make sure we had properly paid
before we left. We motored out of he harbour amongst all manner of craft coming
in or out and set course for the channel between Ibiza island and Formentera
island. It felt worse than trying to cross the M 25 at rush hour with the added
dimension of huge swell and wake from massive stinky motor cruisers. With all
these craft heading the same way as us we began to wonder if there would be any
room at all at our chosen destination anchorage. Luckily many of them found
anchorages nearer than ours and it thinned out as we approached Sahona bay
although there were still many boats anchored here. We found a spot close to
the beach and dropped anchor into the unimaginably clear turquoise coloured
water down into soft white sand.
Here we stayed for the next twenty four hours except for having to move
anchor position because of an unreasonable Dutch sailor anchoring his yacht too
close and refusing to move before nightfall. This was a relaxing swimming day
prior to our passage to Alicante and was only marred by Ann getting stung by
jellyfish which were of the type ironically named "Pelagia
Noctiluca"!
Midday the next day we set sail for Alicante, an overnight
passage of about 100 miles aiming to get there in daylight the following
morning. Light breezes enabled us to sail a bit at first although slightly off
our intended course. Periods of sailing were interspersed with periods of
motoring when the wind fell lighter and the sea remained very calm. There
was a high number of ships around particularly during the night but it helped
pass the time on watch. The last 30 miles to Alicante was flat calm and we
arrived off the harbour entrance at first light in the morning having logged
107 miles. Although we had booked a weeks berth at the marina, we were a day
early and as they were full we had to stay on the reception pontoon for 24
hours until our berth was available. After our 18 hour passage we were happy to
have a shower, just go out for a meal and then sleep! At the end of this stage
we had completed another 335 miles so totalling 1484 so far this year.
Chris