In Argostoli we were joined by Keith ( Vice Commodore of Whitby Yacht Club ) and his wife Irene, who would be with us for one week of this 3 week period. They had a great introduction to Mediterranean mooring when on their first evening a 15 ft wide motor cruiser tried to berth in a 10 ft wide space next to us. The combined anger of the surrounding yachtsmen finally forced them to try elsewhere! From Argostoli we set sail for the north end of Zakinthos island and after some motoring a fine breeze gave us a good sail to the so called sheltered bay of Ayios Nikalaos. Anchoring was not successful in the gusty bay so we went alongside the concrete jetty which was fine until, as about to start our meal, we were pressurised into moving up for a charter yacht to be near their friends. The bay looked nice enough but the wild music until 6 in the morning rather coloured our view of the place. At least a nice little man selling his wares, honey, olive oil and wine brightened the day a little.
Back to Cephallonia island the next day with a good sail most of the way to Poros town. Tied stern to the town quay we happened to be next to a round the world sailor from Scotland, Frank Mallard, now living aboard his boat in the Med and had once been secretary to Whitby Yacht Club in the 70’s. This narcoleptic little town was so welcome after the noise of the night before. Next day we motored with no wind to our favourite little bay of Andreas on Ithaca. We tied to a rock amongst a few boats but we had to move ropes several times in the now fluky wind across the bay. All settled later and we were able to watch the antics of the wild goats coming to drink what must have been a spring near the sea. Last port of call for Keith and Irene was Eufimia, anchored and tied stern to the quay. Other boats anchored over our chain which only gave problems when we came to leave. This town was celebrating their saint’s day and a party on the quay was attended by most of the town with Greek music and fireworks, great fun. Keith and Irene were able to watch us leave and helped to get the diver from the harbour to sort chains before we could lift ours and proceed. Back to Frikes for us and tied alongside the harbour wall as recommended. To our surprise some were stern to the wall with anchors across the harbour, not as suggested here and surprise, surprise as the afternoon breeze strengthened they all dragged and there was panic as they tried to berth alongside.
We wanted to see a much described bay on Atoko island known as ‘one house bay’ and when we arrived there only one other boat was at anchor. It was blue water and lovely scenery on this now deserted island and we swam thinking maybe we were lucky because you could only get about 6 boats in here.
One hour later there were 17 yachts and an 80 meter charter super yacht moored almost on top of us! Once the late afternoon squalls got up people were dragging anchors, fouling anchors on the big ship and all the fun of the fair! We decided that for peace of mind that night we had to go and hoped we could get a berth in Spartkhori before dark. A great sail in a force 5 beam wind took us there and we were greeted with the last available berth followed by a quiet night.
We had received some bad weather forecasts and the next day proved right as storms and rain set in so we stayed securely there. Next we sailed out to another small island of Kalamos and the bay of Porto Leone.
Here we anchored in beautiful surroundings near a deserted village. The village had been abandoned after the 1953 earthquake when their spring water supply dried up. The church there is still kept up by visits from other towns every Sunday to clean and maintain it. It seems strange to see a beautiful church amongst the ruins of splendid houses. From there we sailed to Sivota but the town was full and we continued the good sail up to Vlihko bay near Nidri to get supplies. Nidri is a much spoiled tourist town and we were glad to get back into Vlihko bay to the quiet swimming area. With just a few days left to get back to our lift out in Preveza we tried 2 more anchorages. The first, Port Atheni on Meganissi island looked perfect and our position in the corner of the bay was ideal. Sadly a French boat and a Russian yacht also thought so but tied to the shore thus restricting our swinging space and forcing us to move 50 yards out. A birthday celebration in one of the tavernas until 2 in the morning also marred the enjoyment. Our faith was restored by the final bay, Varko on the mainland where a quiet sandy beach fronted a beautiful view and it was serene and calm with only goat bells for music. The perfect end with a relaxing day.
Finally we motored up the Lefkas canal to the marina to complete some maintenance tasks ready to finally go to Preveza for our lift out. Pelagia will stay here for August whilst we fly home avoiding the increasing crowds and the intense heat. This season we have logged 980 miles over 3 countries and taken Pelagia to her spiritual home of Cephallonia
