Pelagia’s cruise 2017 part four Menorca to Alicante

 Leaving Mahon harbour after a few days was quite sad as we had enjoyed it tremendously but with our latest crew on board, Beverley and Ann, it was time to move on. The first leg was to be about 40 miles across to Mallorca. Once out of the long harbour and having waited for a Costa cruise ship to enter we set sail for the south east corner of Menorca in a pleasant following wind. Having sailed between the main island and the offlying Isle  de Bel Aire we set course west. The wind remained astern and stable so we set the cruising chute and sailed gently for the next three hours. The wind then died to a whisper and we had to motor the remaining  half of the way to Cala Ratjada harbour, a logged trip of 46.2 miles.  As we entered we were waved to a berth on the outer harbour mole and it was obvious that a swell was rolling in the harbour and all the boats were rolling from side to side. Where such a swell was coming from was a mystery as the wind did not seem strong enough to cause it, however it rolled all night but a little less by morning. The town was pleasant with reasonable facilities and the harbour staff friendly. It was incredibly hot behind the harbour wall and we all sat in the harbour side bar with a beer until the sun started to sink.

    A shorter trip the next day took us south west along the coast of Mallorca . Firstly we sailed but the early breeze died and we motored. A breeze came up on our beam about midday and we started to sail beautifully. The breeze gradually came further south and we had to put in two tacks to sail to our destination of Porto Colom where we had sailed 25 miles although the log was stuck again so did not record.  I had chosen this place because of the enclosed nature of the bay where no swell should get in. The entrance was enchanting with fine houses and a stately lighthouse opening on a beautiful if somewhat crowded bay. A club Nautico boat and sailor met us and informed us we could not anchor as we wished but could use their buoys for mooring which was simple and easy and we were soon moored in a most delightful spot. It was very sheltered, calm and good swimming in the water which was now 26 degrees. We intended to push on the next day but decided to stay another day and explore the town especially as we could get the club boat to give us a lift ashore for free. Also we met another Hallberg Rassy owner moored next to us who was sadly now alone after his partner recently died and he told us how nice the place was when we shared a gin and tonic with him on our boat.  We spent the second day walking to the local town and church which was being bedecked with netting decoration for their forthcoming festival of the boats service. More swimming occupied the afternoon to cool us down again.

   Leaving Porto Colom the next morning there was a lively north easterly wind and we ran down the coast with the Genoa sail giving us good speed in the somewhat turbulent sea and force five to six winds. The first fifteen miles was all with the Genoa set on one side but the wind was such that we were getting set in towards the coast as we approached Salinas point. We carefully steered the yacht so that we avoided having to gybe just before the point and still stayed clear of the shallows . As we came round the point the wind was more on the beam and we ran up the coast with the wind gradually dying towards Rapita. We had been told that berths were difficult to get in this marina at this time of year and we certainly could not raise anybody on the radio so we went in and tied alongside a signed waiting pontoon. It was some time before a marinero came and ordered us out saying we would have to anchor outside until 4 p.m. then radio for a berth. The anchorage was a bit exposed and uncomfortable and we also needed a supermarket so we hoped we could get a berth later. Sure enough at 4 p.m. we were told to come in and were given a berth tied stern to the quay right at the harbour entrance. This was not easy or particularly comfortable as the now strong wind was blowing straight in on our beam. At least we berthed without a hitch whilst a Swiss boat coming in later alongside made a right hash of it and had no ropes or fenders prepared and all four persons on board seemed to have little idea what to do. With our crew and the marineros it  all ended safely. However, we had a nights berth and we could shop even if the fee was the highest we had paid to date! The showers were very good so that made up for a lot. Rapita looked to be a very modern and unappealing place so it was good to leave early.

   Another 20 mile sail was planned next up to El Arenal bay which is part of the great bay of Palma. We had little wind on the way but when we came to anchor the sea breeze set in and made it rather lumpy. The backdrop of town along the coast was continuous blocks of houses and hotels in high rise stretched along the wide  sandy beach. At least we had plenty to watch as the sea thronged with water sports . The highlight was to see  one of the Americas Cup catamarans racing up and down the bay sometimes up out of the water on its winged keel. There were also kite surfers alarming us by their desire to go so close to our rigging even though they were very good. A windsurfer also had a board with a keel such that it would ride up out of  the water and fly at an incredible speed. The wind died at night and we were calm but a bit rolly all night.

Another 20 miles the next day across the bay of Palma took us to Santa Ponsa bay where a very sheltered anchorage allowed us to enjoy swimming and relaxing in fairly beautiful surroundings albeit with many other yachts. 

I had decided on this bay as our last relaxing point in Mallorca because it was only five miles from Andraix port and we needed to get a berth in there as our last leaving place from Mallorca and we had to shop and water up for the trip to Ibiza. Again It is said to be near impossible to get a berth but we arrived early and got a good berth in the yacht Club. This again was eye wateringly expensive but it had excellent showers and a swimming pool included!

  We left at first light for Ibiza island heading for a marina on the south east coast, a trip of about 60 miles. The wind was mostly easterly starting at force five to six but gradually easing during the day to force four. It was a stupendous sail and we made good time of about 10 hours. We hoped again that we could get a berth as the bay outside was very lumpy and after tying up at the reception quay we were granted a suitable berth in Santa Eulalia harbour. The prices in Ibiza island were even higher than in Mallorca, but what options did we have. The town was a very scruffy heavily built up area and we  did not wish to explore too much. The aim was to do the 10 miles on to Ibiza town the next day where we hoped to get a berth to explore the beautiful old town of Ibiza. The sea conditions had deteriorated significantly overnight and we had a very wet bumpy ride downwind to Ibiza town. Apart from three cruise ships and many ferries in the harbour there were a plethora of other motor boats and yachts manoeuvring around. I called the marina for a berth, having received no reply to my e mailed request the previous day. After a long wait it  was confirmed we could have a berth in 10 minutes time ! Oh what joy! Whilst waiting for our time to go in we heard yachts pleading for berths on the radio even resorting to stories of sick crew and run out of water, all to no avail they were told all berths were full. Once we got berthed up the next shock was the price. I thought I might have to take out  a mortgage on the boat to pay the fee!  How all the huge motor boats and yachts pay this extortionate amount we did not know, but it is certainly a place for the rich and  famous. 

Ibiza old town is very beautiful and walking the walls within the old fortress and wandering through the narrow cobbled streets is a treat that made it worth the money as well as having a tasty Spanish style lunch served amongst the tree covered walkways.

        

  We had to leave the marina before 12 the next day or risk another extortionate fee and the marinero was around to make sure we had properly paid before we left. We motored out of he harbour amongst all manner of craft coming in or out and set course for the channel between Ibiza island and Formentera island. It felt worse than trying to cross the M 25 at rush hour with the added dimension of huge swell and wake from massive stinky motor cruisers. With all these craft heading the same way as us we began to wonder if there would be any room at all at our chosen destination anchorage. Luckily many of them found anchorages nearer than ours and it thinned out as we approached Sahona bay although there were still many boats anchored here. We found a spot close to the beach and dropped anchor into the unimaginably clear turquoise coloured water down into soft white sand. 

Here we stayed for the next twenty four hours except for having to move anchor position because of an unreasonable Dutch sailor anchoring his yacht too close and refusing to move before nightfall. This was a relaxing swimming day prior to our passage to Alicante and was only marred by Ann getting stung by jellyfish which were of the type ironically named "Pelagia Noctiluca"!

   Midday the next day we set sail for Alicante, an overnight passage of about 100 miles aiming to get there in daylight the following morning. Light breezes enabled us to sail a bit at first although slightly off our intended course. Periods of sailing were interspersed with periods of motoring when the wind  fell lighter and the sea remained very calm. There was a high number of ships around particularly during the night but it helped pass the time on watch. The last 30 miles to Alicante was flat calm and we arrived off the harbour entrance at first light in the morning having logged 107 miles. Although we had booked a weeks berth at the marina, we were a day early and as they were full we had to stay on the reception pontoon for 24 hours until our berth was available. After our 18 hour passage we were happy to have a shower, just go out for a meal and then sleep! At the end of this stage we had completed another 335 miles so totalling 1484 so far this year.

Chris 

Pelagia's cruise 2017 part two, from Sicily to Sardinia

Our crew man James Dick left us in Sciacca in Sicily and Pat and I then sailed the next day on to our last port in Sicily, Marsala, a sail of 43 miles. Marsala is of course famous for the fortified wine of that name which was first manufactured by an Englishman , John Woodhouse. Although our berth in the harbour was good with excellent facilities it was a long way into the centre of town. Pat and I started to walk it but the busy roads with no defined pavement scared us to death. We decided that we were not that keen to see the obviously dilapidated town and ducked into a small bar where we got coffee and a sweet Marsala. Using the Wi Fi in the bar we discovered that the wind pattern was perfect for our trip to Sardinia over the next few days so decided to leave in the morning and end our Sicilian adventure.

   We left at first light from Marsala harbour and set course for the Egadi islands just west of Sicily. These islands are very high mountains in contrast to the low lying western end of Sicily and we could see the furthest island clearly as we left the harbour. However, the sun was bringing up a mist off the sea and before we had gone 10 miles we were plunged into thick fog with about 100 yards visibility. Worryingly there were a few small fishing boats about so we motored slowly with our eyes straining to see into the fog as it swirled around us. It lasted an hour by which time we were level with the last of the island group and the sun burned the fog off and exposed the sheer granite structure of the island in all its beauty. 

At last we could set course safely for Sardinia and let our jangled nerves rest. A light following breeze established itself and setting our cruising chute gave us a speed of about four knots. 

Pods of dolphins joined us on occasions one pod was eight individuals and they played with us for half an hour. We were able to keep that sail up all day and into the evening when the breeze became more fickle. We motored through the night making good speed but in a strange quartering sea the motion was not ideal for sleeping and the waves seemed larger than the wind strength warranted. The sunset was perfect as was the sunrise and no repetition of the early morning fog. Many ships in the night kept us busy checking our safe clearances using AIS and radar and it was soon morning. 

   A clear approach to Sardinia helped us negotiate the rocky islets on the south east corner and make our way into  Villasimius marina, a very well protected harbour. We last visited here five years ago on our way across the Mediterranean and the marina has improved and developed since then. 

We had logged 175 miles in 29 hours and neither of us had slept much so after hosing the boat down and tidying away we had a couple of hours kip. A wonderful shower followed and then we tried the rather splendid looking restaurant. It lived up to its appearance and we enjoyed huge starters followed by a main course of lobster and salad, all eaten overlooking the setting sun over the mountains behind and the sparkling sea in the bay. Boy did we sleep well that night!

  We stayed in the marina for a few days as we had plenty of time to spare in our plan and it was a useful shopping and washing place. Then we left the marina and anchored in the bay just outside where we could swim and relax for free for a couple of days. The bay is wonderfully protected by the surrounding islands and the warm clear sea as clean as any you see in the Mediterranean. There are hotels along the shore but tastefully built and with a wonderful backdrop of verdant high mountains beyond making it a beautiful setting. The

water is crystal clear and the bottom pure white sand with good anchor holding. 

After two days there we awoke to a light easterly breeze and decided to sail to Marina di Capitana about 12 miles up the bay towards Cagliari. Setting our  Genoa we sailed at good speed west along the coast then north west round the corner as the wind strengthened and veered in our favour. It was now blowing force four and we were having a tremendous sail when in an instant the wind died. We were now only five miles from Capitana so we motored the rest of the way and were  greeted in a friendly manner by the marina staff who showed us to a berth. Whilst checking in at the office we noticed that the sea outside was white with surf and the wind had risen from the south blowing up to force seven which it continued to do until nightfall when it dropped equally quickly. The winds here are extremely unpredictable even to the locals and a couple of local boats coming in had great difficulty berthing up in the blustery conditions.

  After a couple of days in Capitana it was time to make the last leg to Cagliari itself ready to meet our next crew , Corine, who would then be with us for the sail to the Balearic Islands. The last leg was short, 12 miles only and light winds after which we berthed in the Marina San't Elmo. The huge harbour of Cagliari has water of a deep brown colour which was such a contrast to the clear blue we had experienced so far. The old city was much praised by D H Lawrence in his book the Sea and Sardinia and it turned out to be rightly so. We started our tour at the Elephantine tower, built in 1307 as part of the then city walls by the Pisans who established a large walled city here. 

It has fantastic views all around the city and harbour and looking as far as the large international airport here now. The portcullis is still in place as is the small elephant carved on the stone outside the entrance. Many of the piazzas and grand buildings and churches have been renovated providing interesting views all around the city with beautiful tree lined boulevards and open squares to sit. 

We happened upon the university library and saw that it was free entry to visitors so went in. It is an amazing room built in 1780 which houses 550,000 books dating back many centuries and all on display to the visitor.  

We very much enjoyed the beauty and friendly ambience of the city even though it was incredibly hot!

Pat and I had logged another 246 miles since James left us making the total this year so far 852  and about a third of our total plan. 

Chris 

  Pelagia 2017 cruise part 1

Pelagia was ready waiting  anti-fouled and polished when we returned to Preveza in May and we launched her two days after arriving . The day we launched it rained all day!  A week’s hard work is involved in getting everything back up and running before we were ready to sail and luckily the weather improved. We left the marina early on the Sunday morning bound for the Levkas island channel and before we had cleared the Preveza channel we were hit by a thunderstorm and rain. It cleared as we reached the bridge which opens for entry to the Levkas channel and we motored through with grey skies and little wind. We motored all the way towards Nidry town to enter an anchorage at Vlikho but as we approached the town another storm hit us and visibility was reduced to zero by the torrential rain and hail interspersed with lightning.  We held off entering until we could see ahead of us and it gradually cleared enough for us to anchor safely for the night. The ships log was not working so I had to do a little maintenance to try and clear it before the next day. We enjoyed a relaxing afternoon on board as the sky cleared to sunshine. 

The next day we tried a short sail in the light winds and everything worked OK except the log still refused to show any reading. We motored to our favourite bay Spartachori, and tied up at Taverna Spilia where we again met the wonderful team that run the Taverna and it was a big welcome all round.

  Since this was to be our last visit we stayed two nights and enjoyed their wonderful hospitality. The sea in that bay is clear and calm so we had our first swim of the season although mine was prompted by the need to examine the log impeller under the boat. The problem was revealed as a large blister of anti-fouling paint obscuring the impeller so it was soon removed and all was working.

     After some sad farewells to Spilia we set sail to Ithaca Island and had a splendid few miles close tacking down the channel between Meganissi and Levkas islands . Once more the wind dropped and we motored into Frikes harbour where we met Catherine who had rented a holiday house there for two weeks with her family. We berthed on the harbour wall, soon to be surrounded by a flotilla of charter yachts, and we stayed there for four days. Whilst there, we enjoyed the hospitality of Catherine and saw a little more of the interior of Ithaca island.

On Sunday the 28th may we set sail for Poros town on Cephalonia and covered the 20 miles in good time to get a berth in the harbour quite early. The day started fine but deteriorated into a blustery showery afternoon. However, the next day dawned fine and an early start saw us on route for Argostoli. The wind was perfect, changing direction as we needed and never more than force four so we romped the 32 miles to Argostoli harbour in warm sunny conditions in five hours.

Here we stayed to await the arrival of James Dick who crewed with us to Sicily on the 270 mile leg across the Ionian Sea. In some ways it was sad that this was our last port in Greece, but we were ready to move on.

   With a good forecast for the next few days we left Argostoli early on 1st June and soon cleared the harbour setting course for the south western corner of the island where our passage would take us out into the Ionian Sea. The day was good but a bank of mist seemed to hang around the islands and there was little wind with which to sail at first. Having cleared the headland we set course slightly south of west directly towards Sicily and continued to motor through a slight sea. A light north westerly breeze ruffled the surface and as it slowly strengthened we set the sails and began a slow tack. We managed to sail for some hours  on into the early evening and it was very pleasant slowly making way even if not quite on the right direction. The wind became more flukey as we left the land behind us and regrettably we were forced to resort to engine as our last views of the Greek islands faded behind us. We motored through the night in calm conditions from a very spectacular sunset through to an equally beautiful sunrise with no company other than two ships passing by. The second day was similar although the sky was not as clear and we managed some sailing morning and evening with motoring in between. Approaching the Italian coast of Calabria in the early evening the wind became quite strong and we flew westward just as we were trying to eat our evening meal, now at 30 degrees to the horizontal. That wind continued as we approached the toe of Italy but reversed direction and was blowing from the area of the Messina straights which always produces weird conditions. As we went into the night we were beginning to pound into short uncomfortable seas and had to reef the Genoa before the wind later faded again. Many ships now appeared heading either in or out of the Messina straights and all three of us were up on deck for a couple of hours in the dark trying to safely manoeuvre through the traffic. Eventually with about 40 miles still to go to our destination the number of ships diminished and the sea quietened down now that we had passed the lead in to the  Messina straights. Motoring through the remaining night hours was uneventful but the sky was heavy with thick cloud  pouring off the heights of Mount Etna in the distance as we closed the coast of Sicily. The last few miles were calm as dawn broke and the sun rose through a clearing sky. We entered Riposto marina at 0800 hours having completed 297 nautical miles in 49 hours. It is five years since we last entered this marina and it is good to see they have extended the breakwater and you now get all round protection making an excellent sheltered marina with good facilities. After refuelling, we had our breakfast whilst waiting to be allocated a berth and then spent the morning cleaning up the ship before going into town. 

   Riposto is a very poor town but with many buildings that had been fabulous in their day. Rubbish abounds in the streets and the Sicilians seem to be oblivious to it. It is one of the few towns in Sicily not given over to tourism. It is a vibrant working town with a pleasant somewhat decayed feel to it whilst Etna broods sulkily over the town in a black haze. However, it is lively and interesting and is full of fish and fruit and vegetable markets that are so colourful and varied that it is a delight to browse and to hear the  stall-holders loudly shouting their wares to any prospective buyers in a way that only Italians could achieve. The fish stalls are stacked with the largest tuna and swordfish that you have ever seen as well as a variety of shellfish, cuttlefish and squid. This area is the best in the Mediterranean for fish of all kinds because of the proximity to the currents in the Messina straights. After a very good night’s sleep by us all to recover from our period of watches on route we awoke to stupendous views of Mount Etna smoking copiously up into a clear deep blue sky. D.H.Lawrence once said, ....then Etna, that wicked witch resting with her thick white snow and slowly, slowly rolling her orange coloured smoke. The Greeks called her the Pillar of heaven.

    From Riposto our next leg took us south to the town of Siracusa. A beautiful sunny quiet morning  accompanied us as we left but Etna in petulant mood was putting out generous plumes of smoke. After motoring for some time the wind came up and we were able to sail close hauled almost on our desired track in perfect conditions. Shortly after there were five Italian warships playing war games around us and they seemed reluctant to leave us, constantly weaving across our path. We managed to sail closely past one of the headlands with four yachts passing us and the navy still all around. Finally we had to tack out as we were too far in shore and it brought us close to two of the warships again. I called one on the radio to make sure we were safe to pass in front, but failed to get an answer. However, he did then speed up and enter Augusta harbour abeam of us. Another couple of tacks and we were within closing distance of Siracusa grand harbour, entering around the beautiful old fortress. We finally got a berth in the town marina and moored up after logging 50 miles. 

     

     Siracusa was once called Ortiga and in 734 BC it was a powerful city state rivalling Athens . It controlled Sicily and the southern Mediterranean for 200 years by which time it was arguing with Rome. Archimedes was resident here and devised ways of setting the Roman ships on fire by using mirrors to concentrate the sun’s rays on the ships. He also had four large bronze cast sheep set in the high fortress with each facing one of the four compass directions. By a system of holes in the castings the wind would pass through the sheep and emit from its mouth with a bleating noise when the wind was in that direction. Each sheep was slightly different and therefore you could tell the wind direction by the different bleating sound! Despite the damage done to the town in the Second World War there are many archeological remains including one of the best Greek amphitheatres in the Mediterranean. We spent a day here exploring although it  rained most of the day.

   The next day dawned fine and we sailed 25 miles down to a port near the south east corner of Sicily called Marzamemi. It had a good little marina but the rest of the town was all devoted to tourism and not tastefully done. 

   We therefore pushed on the next morning for 42 miles along the south coast to Marina di Ragusa. This coast is low lying and a continual spread of unattractive towns and developments interspersed with industry and agriculture, not at all like the north coast. Ragusa was a good marina but again the town was devoted to the beach loving tourists with many fast food outlets. The weather was perfect with light winds in the afternoon and we motored and sailed again the next day to Licata another 40 miles. On route we passed the oil platforms and refinery of their large oil business and approached the harbour of Licata backed by some very dry hills and dominated by a 17th century castle and the huge mausoleums of the town cemetery. Actually the marina here was superb and so well sheltered we decided to stay and rest here and explore the town for an extra day. 

   Licata was the first town in Sicily to be liberated by the American forces in 1943 and consequently many of the fine buildings were shattered by heavy bombardment and still remain in poor condition. The tourist office had a collection of memorabilia from that period found in the seas around. Slowly some buildings are being renovated and make fine homes and business premises.  We walked in  the heat up to the castle with superb views over the bays and the harbour and explored the narrow streets with their complement of elderly gentlemen sitting in groups chatting over affairs of the day as the Sicilians love to do. Our final sailing day with James was to Sciacca where we logged 56 miles with a mixture of sailing and motoring as the breezes allowed. This ancient town has houses built on the steep slope from the town square at the top to the harbour below and a steep set of steps which was much too hard in the heat of the day. 

   There is Moorish and Spanish influences in the town and a thermal baths which is testament to the volcanic nature of the area. Mooring facilities were more primitive here similar to our experience of five years ago. James left us the next morning to find his way to Palermo for his flight home and we took a day out to do washing and cleaning before our next stages of the trip. We have logged 606 nautical miles since leaving Preveza and probably about a quarter of the way on our plan this year.

Chris Richardson

Pelagia’s 2017 cruise part three, Sardinia to Menorca

Waiting in Cagliari for our crew Corine to arrive it became apparent that the weather was deteriorating over the following week. We had to have a two day window to cross from Sardinia to Menorca and we really needed to make some progress west around the bottom of Sardinia to get to a suitable leaving point. After a days delay when Corine arrived because of high winds we set sail for a port west of Cagliari called Teulada. Our planned anchorages on this coast were untenable because of swell so we had to get to this harbour which was sheltered from all directions once there. We set off motoring with quite a large swell then as It settled a little and the wind direction changed we were able to sail for a while. Around the south end of the island a large swell met us coming from the south and we motored  around and turned north west up into the bay where Teulada sits. 

The marina was very pleasant and very well sheltered and we were efficiently shown to a berth. This marina is some way from a town but close to a camp site and beach which turned out to be very primitive and uninviting. The next day was cloudy and with some rain as forecast so we stayed there another night. 

   The weather pattern was showing we had another day of reasonable winds before severe gales set in across the Sardinian sea with the associated huge seas, so we could make the 40 miles to Portoscuso and stay there until our hoped for window of weather to cross to Menorca. As the cloudy sky cleared we had some good sailing as we set off from Teulada until we turned north around the island of Anticio and across the shallow waters between the islands and the mainland of Sardinia. We entered Portoscuso and it appeared to be untended until at last a marina man appeared and allocated a very nice finger pontoon berth to us. This was superb because the north west wind was already strengthening and we could lean nicely on the pontoon. I seemed unlikely that we could leave in under three days as force nine gales from the north west created a three metre rough sea between there and Menorca. 

However, the town we initially thought was poor revealed itself to be interesting with an old tuna fishery building and old boats which they are trying to turn into a good museum. A tower on the  headland built in 1577 was a splendid feature of the coast path between the town and the beach where we walked on the Monday. The gale was reducing out at sea but the swell was still pounding in around the rocks offshore and we hoped that the predictions would be right and it would settle down more by the morning and we could leave. A large 60 foot yacht had radioed the harbour for a berth and we watched her try and enter in the pounding surf. Sadly she went aground at the entrance with her deep 3 metre keel in the shallow approach channel. We all watched in alarm but she managed to get off and then decided to sail to nearby Porto Vesme , an industrial harbour, for safer entry. She reappeared a short while later apparently unable to berth in the ship dock and was trying again to enter here which this time she did successfully and with many hands  helping she berthed on the windward side of our pontoon. They were mightily relieved to get in safely.

   The predicted window of weather was correct and we left early Tuesday morning for our 200 mile sail to Mahon in Menorca. The morning dawned bright and clear with little wind and we set course to round the lighthouse and rocks west of the harbour before setting our course north west for Mahon. The swell was large but clearly not as big as the previous day and we motored over it without trouble. As forecast the wind gradually filled in from the south and by midday we could set sails and sail gently on a broad reach. The sky was clear and the sun hot so the gentle breeze was welcome to keep us cool. The wind varied and we alternated between sailing and motoring until dusk when we finally could keep sailing through most of the night. We were not without ships and as usual Pat seemed to get most of them on her watch. Corine stood watches during the day but being her first long night crossing she shared with Chris at night.

We had a half moon nearly all night and an array of stars as usual in the clear sky. The sunset was completely clear as was the sunrise . A choppy swell developed from the south east and Pelagia was slapping about from one side to the other with the sail unable to stay filled against the rolling. Reluctantly we furled the Genoa and motorsailed with just the main. With the engine on low revs we managed a good speed and clearly we would get to Mahon before the second night. During the day when Pat was on watch she suddenly leapt up having seen something large floating on the port bow and thinking we were about to run into some huge debris. It turned out to be three sperm whales, one of which was a baby and they were just resting on the surface together with a dolphin. We passed them close by on the port side but at least we did not hit them. They showed no sign of being alarmed and just lay there as we sailed past. We have never seen whales before in the Mediterranean so it was a pleasure indeed although brief to encounter them. Poor Corine was off watch down below and by the time she came up they were slipping astern of us but you could see them spouting. We also encountered more dolphins on route although few wished to stay long with us.

The choppy swell developed into quite a large following sea with an uncomfortable motion and it must have been caused by a wind further South stronger than that we had at the time. 

We entered Mahon harbour at five p.m. after 35 hours having done 222 miles. Firstly we headed for a very protected anchorage inside the large harbour tucked behind an island. It was an idyllic anchorage but many others thought so as well and we could not find a space between the yachts. We therefore proceeded to the main harbour where we refuelled and whilst at the fuel berth managed to negotiate a good berth on the town quay stern to the road and all the shops and restaurants. Clearly Mahon harbour was very busy at this time of year and we were extremely happy to have found a position to stay. We had beaten the expected bad weather winds and could relax here until our crew change and the next leg through the Balearics to Spain. We had completed another 297 miles making a total of 1149 so far this year in one month of our trip. Corine would leave us here and Beverly and Ann join us for the next leg.

Chris and Pat Richardson