Pelagia’s final Ionian fling.

We returned to Greece at the end of August and had Pelagia lifted back in the water. Pat had a big shock when she saw a rock about the size of a golf ball hanging on one of the curtains inside. Obviously some insect had built a nest and there was a pupating grub inside this rock structure built of grit stuck together. We did not leave it to see what emerged as it looked large and dangerous! Whilst England had started an Indian summer, Greece was plunged into storms and rain. 

Pelagia in the rain

We sat in Cleopatra marina watching the rain and the lightning for the next 2 days!! We saw one yacht coming in when dark with no lights and it turned out they had lost all electrics in the storm so lucky to get in safely. That was the second yacht we heard of that experienced the same problem. All my portable instruments go in the oven when a storm is around to act as a Faraday’s cage and protect them. Finally it cleared and we were able to sail up the Gulf of Amvrakia, a stretch of water about 20 miles long going in from Preveza. It is said to have more fish, turtles and dolphins in here because of the ideal conditions. We sailed gently to a bay at the far end of the gulf where there was nobody else in the anchorage and we could watch the wildlife which included many Storks flying over. We had a wonderful quiet night on anchor. The following day we sailed back to the small town of Vonitsa still within the gulf and anchored off the town. On route we were treated to a display by 3 dolphins that stayed with us for about 15 minutes, a great treat. Vonitsa looked like a pleasant holiday town but behind the façade it was run down and incredibly poor.

Vonsita

We sailed back to Cleopatra marina where we waited for Zorana to join us for the next two weeks. The weather seemed more settled and we set off on a trip including many places we had seen before, this included the islands of Levkas, Meganissi, Kalamos, Ithaca, and Cephalonia. We had a bad forecast again after a few days and we scuttled into Frikes on Ithaca to shelter from a violent storm which we sat out for the next day watching other boats entering in dreadful conditions. At least the rain was warm! It did finally settle down a bit for Zorana’s second week and we had some good anchorages. One new place we visited was Vathi on Ithaca which was very pretty and a lovely anchorage in the middle of the small town.

Port Vathi

 A wind came up in the night on that anchorage and we said to Zorana that we would have a lively sail the next day up to Spartakhori so we all prepared for it but as soon as we got out of the bay it virtually dropped and we sailed intermittently with motoring to get there to meet our friend David in his boat. Swimming was great at this time of year with water temperature of 24 deg. and we had some lovely nights on anchor. Finally we arrived back in Lefkas marina where Zorana left us. Lefkada is actually an interesting town with many of the houses having upper floors made of tin sheeting. This was a precaution against earthquake damage. Many of the shops in the main street are pretty coloured tin upper stories above the shops.

Lefkas tin shops

Our final week was spent working on the boat, in between the by now regular rain storms! We are lifting out at Preveza Cleopatra marina for the winter to return home on 2^nd October. We have added another 190 miles logged in September to our total for this year making a total of 1170 nautical miles for 2014 and added two more countries to the list that Pelagia has experienced. Sadly Greece has had the worst summer locals can remember ever. We had some glorious days, as we should, but one could never relax as storms came back regularly every week or so and we constantly were looking for ports of refuge. Thank God we were in Greece this year because Croatia has been even worse!

Sunrise over Port Atheni, Meganissi

Pelagia sails Argostoli back to Preveza

In Argostoli we were joined by Keith ( Vice Commodore of Whitby Yacht Club ) and his wife Irene, who would be with us for one week of this 3 week period. They had a great introduction to Mediterranean mooring when on their first evening a 15 ft wide motor cruiser tried to berth in a 10 ft wide space next to us. The combined anger of the surrounding yachtsmen finally forced them to try elsewhere! From Argostoli we set sail for the north end of Zakinthos island and after some motoring a fine breeze gave us a good sail to the so called sheltered bay of Ayios Nikalaos. Anchoring was not successful in the gusty bay so we went alongside the concrete jetty which was fine until, as about to start our meal, we were pressurised into moving up for a charter yacht to be near their friends. The bay looked nice enough but the wild music until 6 in the morning rather coloured our view of the place. At least a nice little man selling his wares, honey, olive oil and wine brightened the day a little.

Back to Cephallonia island the next day with a good sail most of the way to Poros town. Tied stern to the town quay we happened to be next to a round the world sailor from Scotland, Frank Mallard, now living aboard his boat in the Med and had once been secretary to Whitby Yacht Club in the 70’s. This narcoleptic little town was so welcome after the noise of the night before. Next day we motored with no wind to our favourite little bay of Andreas on Ithaca. We tied to a rock amongst a few boats but we had to move ropes several times in the now fluky wind across the bay. All settled later and we were able to watch the antics of the wild goats coming to drink what must have been a spring near the sea. Last port of call for Keith and Irene was Eufimia, anchored and tied stern to the quay. Other boats anchored over our chain which only gave problems when we came to leave. This town was celebrating their saint’s day and a party on the quay was attended by most of the town with Greek music and fireworks, great fun. Keith and Irene were able to watch us leave and helped to get the diver from the harbour to sort chains before we could lift ours and proceed. Back to Frikes for us and tied alongside the harbour wall as recommended. To our surprise some were stern to the wall with anchors across the harbour, not as suggested here and surprise, surprise as the afternoon breeze strengthened they all dragged and there was panic as they tried to berth alongside.

We wanted to see a much described bay on Atoko island known as ‘one house bay’ and when we arrived there only one other boat was at anchor. It was blue water and lovely scenery on this now deserted island and we swam thinking maybe we were lucky because you could only get about 6 boats in here.

 One hour later there were 17 yachts and an 80 meter charter super yacht moored almost on top of us! Once the late afternoon squalls got up people were dragging anchors, fouling anchors on the big ship and all the fun of the fair! We decided that for peace of mind that night we had to go and hoped we could get a berth in Spartkhori before dark. A great sail in a force 5 beam wind took us there and we were greeted with the last available berth followed by a quiet night.

We had received some bad weather forecasts and the next day proved right as storms and rain set in so we stayed securely there. Next we sailed out to another small island of Kalamos and the bay of Porto Leone. 

Here we anchored in beautiful surroundings near a deserted village. The village had been abandoned after the 1953 earthquake when their spring water supply dried up. The church there is still kept up by visits from other towns every Sunday to clean and maintain it. It seems strange to see a beautiful church amongst the ruins of splendid houses. From there we sailed to Sivota but the town was full and we continued the good sail up to Vlihko bay near Nidri to get supplies. Nidri is a much spoiled tourist town and we were glad to get back into Vlihko bay to the quiet swimming area. With just a few days left to get back to our lift out in Preveza we tried 2 more anchorages. The first, Port Atheni on Meganissi island looked perfect and our position in the corner of the bay was ideal. Sadly a French boat and a Russian yacht also thought so but tied to the shore thus restricting our swinging space and forcing us to move 50 yards out. A birthday celebration in one of the tavernas until 2 in the morning also marred the enjoyment. Our faith was restored by the final bay, Varko on the mainland where a quiet sandy beach fronted a beautiful view and it was serene and calm with only goat bells for music. The perfect end with a relaxing day.

Finally we motored up the Lefkas canal to the marina to complete some maintenance tasks ready to finally go to Preveza for our lift out. Pelagia will stay here for August whilst we fly home avoiding the increasing crowds and the intense heat. This season we have logged 980 miles over 3 countries and taken Pelagia to her spiritual home of Cephallonia

Overnight Race from Sunderland to Whitby! 27th/28th June 2014.

Glorious sunshine and blue skies greeted us on the Thursday morning for our early departure from Whitby.  This being my very first overnight race, I felt tremendously excited as well as a little apprehensive about what lay ahead.  Having packed plenty of warm clothing and gallons of hot coffee and soup we were ready for any climatic conditions we might encounter in the North Sea!!

Due to the lack of wind Dave and I were obliged, reluctantly, to motor Double D to Sunderland.  However, this gave us ample opportunity to take in the incredible coastal scenery, wildlife, and more importantly, time to revise vessel lights!!!  Thanks Dave!! 

Being accompanied by Icon proved most enjoyable too for this outward journey.  Exchanging the odd words of banter, whilst in bantering distance, made time fly by.

Sunderland came into view six hours later, and approaching the marina was a welcome sight.  However our joy turned to disbelief when we were informed that there was only room for one vessel!! Oooops!  Thankfully, after a good deal of Neil’s persistence, a berth was made available and we moored alongside our Icon crewmates.  We made full use of the marina`s facilities; eating and drinking and enjoying our visit.  

By late afternoon on Friday, we had our full complement of crew.  Adrian Fusco joined us.  It was to be his first overnight race too.  All of us were eagerly awaiting the race start.  As the start time drew ever closer, I began to feel a few butterflies, how dark would it actually be? and, would I be able to stay awake??  

We had checked weather conditions during the day and our worst fears were realised,  LIGHT WINDS!!  Frustration!!  Well at least everyone was in the same boat, figuratively speaking, and as it turned out, we all were, almost. 

At the start there we all were, jostling and bobbing about, using boathooks and fenders to stop the boats colliding as we literally inched closer to the start line. Forty minutes later (which seemed an eternity) everyone finally crossed the start line.  Hooray we`re off thought I.  Gradually the north easterly winds picked up and we began to race!!!

As the light faded and darkness fell,  I was amazed that it was still possible to make out other boats against the skyline.  I couldn`t believe the myriad of lights along the coast as we passed Teesside, and realised how baffling it could be.  Very steadily the winds began to increase until we were making a healthy 5/6 knots.  It felt fabulous and a real thrill when we realised we were keeping up with the rest of the fleet!

One of the most magical moments was when Dave told me to look over the stern and I was able to see the phosphorescence that he`d told me about, shimmering and glistening in the murky waters below!! AWESOME!!!

Gradually tiredness took over, and I managed to grab some sleep below deck, drifting off to the sounds of the boat as she skimmed the water.  An hour later,  I emerged to see the wind farm was still remarkably in view. 

Then a mysterious red light appeared almost dead ahead. At first it appeared as though it wasn`t too far in the distance.  After a while, however, as the light improved and dawn was breaking, Dave realised it was the light above Whitby harbour on the cliff top!  Thank goodness he`d identified where it actually was!!  The dark definitely plays tricks with your eyes.

As we sailed closer towards Whitby our course took us between boats that were steering out into the North Sea and others that were hugging the coastline.  We noticed that we had made considerable ground and were lying around 4^th place.  Fantastic! not far to go, we could finish amongst the top half of the group.  Alas as the finish line approached we were scuppered!!

The wind dropped and we began to struggle to make any ground over the water!!.  We could see our position slipping away and couldn`t do anything about it.  Even though we were bitterly disappointed,  I was relieved to have completed my first overnight race.

 I`m now looking forward to cruising to the Farnes in July and here`s hoping the weather is kinder to us!!

Mel Russell

Double D

W.Y. C. Summer Cruise North Sat 19th July 2014

Hello all,

Well, at last I have sat down with tables and charts, the results of my labours, the dates and tides are below.

Sat 19th July - H.W. 09:59 - Whitby to Hartlepool - We intend to leave on the extra bridge, at 1300.
Thus getting the tide north, and possibly having to wait for sufficient water to enter the Hartlepool lock.

Sun 20th July - H.W. 10:47 - H'pool to Newcastle City Marina - 27N.M. - Leaving about midday seeking the tidal assistance to the Tyne mouth, then the flooding tide to assist up the river Tyne to the City Marina. Will have to book a bridge opening at the Millennium bridge

Mon 21st - Rest Day in Newcastle

Tues 22nd - H.W. 1256 - Newcastle City Marina to Amble - 27N.M. - Leaving on the Midday bridge

Wed 23rd - H.W. 13:42 - Amble to Farnes - 28N.M. - I am keen to visit the Farnes, and weather dependent anchor overnight at Lindisfarne

Thurs 24th - H.W. 02:09 & 14:35 - Lindisfarne to Eyemouth - 17 N.M.

We are keen to travel all the way to the Firth of Forth, and Queensferry, all being dependent on tide and weather.

The return journey will most likely start on Sunday 27th , to conclude in Scarborough by Friday 1st August, for the race the following morning.

I will welcome any observations, or comments, and would like to know if anyone intends to join in for any of this cruise.

Best regards
Dave Broughton
R.C.C.

Pelagia in the footsteps of Odysseus

We were joined in Corfu by Catherine, our friend from Fryup and together we were able to explore Corfu town, in good weather this time, before setting off south for Cephallonia. Our first stop en route was a previously visited bay of Mourtos on the mainland then off to Mongonisi bay on Paxos island. After a gentle sail we were the first to arrive and anchored in this picturesque bay where we could then watch the antics of others attempting to securely anchor in the now skittish wind.

 From Paxos it was a longer sail down to Preveza, a flat area of land on the mainland somewhat reminiscent of Spurn head only much warmer! Entering Cleopatra marina in the strong wind and cross current proved interesting and we were watched by a turtle, head up in the marina waters. Here we have arranged our summer lift out for August.

Heading south towards Lefkas island you enter the Lefkas canal which splits the sand bar making Lefkas an island. The floating bridge to enter the canal is fascinating as both ends lift then the whole thing swings aside to clear the channel. Once through the canal you are in sheltered waters with many small islands as well as beautiful Lefkas itself. A good sail down towards Nidri town brought us to our chosen bay to anchor and whilst negotiating the many yachts in a capricious wind our engine refused to start. More tacking required to give us some sea room before I dare go below to investigate and then the loose wire was found and rectified. The prize was a magnificent tranquil bay to anchor with stunning views of Lefkas mountains over which the sun set slowly. A small house on the shore of the bay appeared to have a cement mixer on the quay that was too clean for its normal use. Our puzzlement was ended when we saw the fisherman throw his octopus into it to tenderise the meat.

Next day sailing to Meganissi island we passed the island of Skorpios, once owned by the Onassis family and now by Russians. Beautiful, tranquil but untouchable. The small town of Spartakhori was where we berthed and we could climb up to the small sleepy town above the bay where time stopped probably in Homer’s time.

A sail through the Meganissi channel, said to be the most beautiful in the Ionian did not disappoint and then out into the sea towards Ithaca. Homer’s Odyssey describes Ithaca as the land of goats and the high mountainous green slopes certainly seemed so. The town of Frikes nestling deep in a valley provided a small harbour where we moored alongside soon to be hemmed in by a dozen charter flotilla yachts. But it did not spoil the ambience of the place. Catherine had visited here before and showed us the sights and some of the local people. Imagine our surprise when looking at a hotel swimming pool to meet up with Bob, our crew in the Atlantic that we had not seen for 6 years.

From Ithaca to Cephallonia island where Pelagia gets her name. The town of Fiscardo is much visited by tourists as the prettiest town on Cephallonia and the only one to survive the 1953 earthquake. Finding a space on the quay was difficult and getting our anchor down without crossing others is a challenge. Later we realised that people don’t care and it is just something to sort out in the morning. Our stern was a few feet from a restaurant and they helped us to get ashore so we felt compelled to eat there later and very good it was. The old town is quaint, Venetian style with many roman remains including a burial site from the second century.

More gentle sailing to Euphymia where we anchored in the middle of the harbour bay to be treated to a display by a friendly turtle. From here another gentle sail to the south end of Ithaca island into Andreas bay which is inaccessible by land. A small fishing boat was all the company we had in this tiny idyllic bay where we enjoyed the solitude and the swimming. A herd of wild goats came to entertain us with their bleating and their antics on the rocks around the bay. Finally a long passage down to the south end of Cephallonia island where anchorages were not many or sheltered. The bay of Katelios on the south coast appeared calm upon entry but in the afternoon force 7 it became very lively and rolled all night. To get a final good nights sleep we went up the inlet beyond Argostoli the next night and anchored at the head of the bay, sheltered and good for swimming. Catherine got her last night at sea as a quiet restful anchorage. Into Argostoli the next morning where we are now on the town quay. The capital of Cephallonia the town is busy but provides anything you may need. Totally destroyed in the 1953 quake it has been rebuilt sympathetically. Many people emigrated from the island after the quake as they lost everything and so soon after the destruction of the war but they seem determined to build a good life here. Sadly the quay side has cracks in it which occurred this year with another small quake. The problem of living on an active area. A great tourist attraction in the harbour is a group of 5 turtles encouraged by food from the fisherman and they will put on a great display.

Catherine leaves us here and our next crew, Keith and Irene are due in soon as we begin our route back north to our lift out

Riva Cup 14/15th June 2014

Well that was a really mixed bag for the racing cruisers.

A race to Scarborough, with very little wind, and a following swell, really was not what we were looking for. We really struggled on Double D, but had a lovely night out in Scarborough, with the real racers. Finishing at the S.Y.C. with an unannounced hog roast. Quite a lovely surprise, and a great way to finish our night.

Also a real thank you to Ed and Annie on 'Kathryn' for the pics, a really nice touch guys.

Sunday morning brought a light North westerly wind for the start of the return leg, after the full english, of course, on the harbour top, but quickly built into a wonderfully stiff breeze to beat home in double quick time.

Our next outing will be Wednesday 25th June 2014, an early bridge 0730, an 0800 start to race/cruise north in preparation for the "Overnight" race Sunderland to Whitby, starting at 2100 on Friday 27th.

Pelagia sails the Northern Ionian

We have had three weeks in Corfu and the Northern Ionian for some of which we have had Corine and Edward on board. The day Edward was due to arrive we had decided to see Corfu town, but our tour was shortened when the torrential rain decided not to stop whilst we walked the walls of the old fortress. The next day it had all cleared and the four of us had a pleasant gentle sail down to the south of Corfu island to a small fishing village anchorage at Petriti. The swimming was good and the shelter from the wind, but the swell from fishing boats and ferries was a constant problem in many anchorages.

Paxos Island

The next day we had a brisk sail between Corfu and Paxos island and berthed on the town quay at Gaios town. Being quite crowded I squeezed between two yachts in the only space and had to move the adjacent yachts mooring rope slightly to tie up. The owner was quite irate upon his return that I had ventured on his boat and made it quite unpleasant. He should try Whitby marina!! Gaios is a charming town in the centre of Paxos island and the island itself very picturesque. I think many exclusive holiday homes are built here with magnificent views of the sea which we saw on our walk around the island. Bad forecasts made us sail next to the mainland to Parga where we hoped to get shelter from the impending easterly winds. Luckily the small bay we chose was empty and perfect shelter.

Parga

Parga is a holiday town but with a pleasant atmosphere and we enjoyed walking the old fort with views of the town and bay. The rain and wind came and kept us pinned down for another night.






Sailing back north up the mainland coast we anchored in Mourtos near a Neilson hotel and watersports centre. It was a magnificent anchorage and not too busy with holidaymakers in sailing dinghies. A gentle sail the next day to Platarias onto a town quay where the town was not as nice as it looked from afar, very poor and run down. From there to a bay off the large town of Ignoumenitsa. The bay was empty, deep blue water and a sandy beach at the end, the perfect anchorage until a trip boat arrived and announced that the trippers had half an hour to swim in the Blue Lagoon. At least they left us in peace and it would have been the perfect spot except for the ferry wash all night rolling us about. 

Platarias

Also it seemed that the nearby town beach had some kind of rally for motorbikers and we were treated to revving bikes and heavy metal music until the early hours. The next anchorage was to be perfect shelter in Pagania a bay on the mainland coast much used for fish farming but with an ideal basin at the end where no swell could enter and swimming was good. Only a small farm house and the grazing animals, cows, horses and goats for company.

Finally we sailed to a bay back on Corfu island called Kalami where we went to a taverna called the White House which had been the home of Lawrence Durrell the author famed for his books on Corfu. Sadly the views were better than the meal they served!. Then our return to Gouvia where our crew would leave us. It seemed that at last the weather was getting more Greek with very hot days and light winds, but at least the marina has an excellent swimming pool for free use by any yacht crew.

Crew  sailing back to Gouvia

We have now sailed 550 miles this season and our next phase should take us south to Lefkas and Cephalonia islands.

Pelagia sails to Greece.

At last a good forecast to leave Montenegro and sail to Corfu. Apart from a few computer problems with the Montenegro Border Police checking out was not too difficult. We set off south from Bar in a calm sea with a few clouds in the sky. Within no time the clouds coalesced to form huge black masses and the rain could be seen all around. Pat even spotted two waterspouts in the distance snaking down from the biblical black sky. What happened to the good forecast? At last we too got the rain, heavy tropical downpours that dampened everything including the spirit.

Currents are said to be slight in the Adriatic but we seemed to have at least one knot against us and the wind against us which lengthened our voyage. Later in the afternoon the sky cleared and the sea gradually lessened. We no longer shipped green waves over the bow. As darkness came we had to motor through an ever lessening wind and sea. Our passage had to keep us outside the 12 mile limit of Albanian waters so as not to be escorted in by an Albanian gunboat and outside some old residual mined areas off the coast. In the later part of the trip Albania and Corfu are only 3 miles apart so you come close to the mountainous Albanian scenery where thick snow could still be seen on the tops of the mountains.

Our 170 mile planned trip turned into a logged 210 miles before we arrived in Corfu. The sky had become grey again but warm as we berthed at Gouvia just north of Corfu town.
The port authority at Gouvia could not check us in as we had come from a non EU country so we were directed to the main town to the tax office, followed by the port authority then Immigration then customs. With consummate Greek efficiency, and much walking about town, over a 4 hour period we seemed no further forward.

We were told offices were closed when they were not and we had to persevere. At last we returned to Gouvia with a promise that presenting all the papers we had accumulated and our receipts for 45 euros paid, would result in the issue of a cruising permit the next day. Unfortunately they omitted to correctly stamp the form and we spent another hour listening to officials berating one another on the phone before the young lady in Gouvia finally issued our DEKPA.
The weather has now settled to perfect hot days, our cruising permit is valid for a least a year so we can now legally cruise Greece.