From Paxos it was a longer sail down to Preveza, a flat area of land on the mainland somewhat reminiscent of Spurn head only much warmer! Entering Cleopatra marina in the strong wind and cross current proved interesting and we were watched by a turtle, head up in the marina waters. Here we have arranged our summer lift out for August.
Heading south towards Lefkas island you enter the Lefkas canal which splits the sand bar making Lefkas an island. The floating bridge to enter the canal is fascinating as both ends lift then the whole thing swings aside to clear the channel. Once through the canal you are in sheltered waters with many small islands as well as beautiful Lefkas itself. A good sail down towards Nidri town brought us to our chosen bay to anchor and whilst negotiating the many yachts in a capricious wind our engine refused to start. More tacking required to give us some sea room before I dare go below to investigate and then the loose wire was found and rectified. The prize was a magnificent tranquil bay to anchor with stunning views of Lefkas mountains over which the sun set slowly. A small house on the shore of the bay appeared to have a cement mixer on the quay that was too clean for its normal use. Our puzzlement was ended when we saw the fisherman throw his octopus into it to tenderise the meat.
Next day sailing to Meganissi island we passed the island of Skorpios, once owned by the Onassis family and now by Russians. Beautiful, tranquil but untouchable. The small town of Spartakhori was where we berthed and we could climb up to the small sleepy town above the bay where time stopped probably in Homer’s time.
A sail through the Meganissi channel, said to be the most beautiful in the Ionian did not disappoint and then out into the sea towards Ithaca. Homer’s Odyssey describes Ithaca as the land of goats and the high mountainous green slopes certainly seemed so. The town of Frikes nestling deep in a valley provided a small harbour where we moored alongside soon to be hemmed in by a dozen charter flotilla yachts. But it did not spoil the ambience of the place. Catherine had visited here before and showed us the sights and some of the local people. Imagine our surprise when looking at a hotel swimming pool to meet up with Bob, our crew in the Atlantic that we had not seen for 6 years.
From Ithaca to Cephallonia island where Pelagia gets her name. The town of Fiscardo is much visited by tourists as the prettiest town on Cephallonia and the only one to survive the 1953 earthquake. Finding a space on the quay was difficult and getting our anchor down without crossing others is a challenge. Later we realised that people don’t care and it is just something to sort out in the morning. Our stern was a few feet from a restaurant and they helped us to get ashore so we felt compelled to eat there later and very good it was. The old town is quaint, Venetian style with many roman remains including a burial site from the second century.
More gentle sailing to Euphymia where we anchored in the middle of the harbour bay to be treated to a display by a friendly turtle. From here another gentle sail to the south end of Ithaca island into Andreas bay which is inaccessible by land. A small fishing boat was all the company we had in this tiny idyllic bay where we enjoyed the solitude and the swimming. A herd of wild goats came to entertain us with their bleating and their antics on the rocks around the bay. Finally a long passage down to the south end of Cephallonia island where anchorages were not many or sheltered. The bay of Katelios on the south coast appeared calm upon entry but in the afternoon force 7 it became very lively and rolled all night. To get a final good nights sleep we went up the inlet beyond Argostoli the next night and anchored at the head of the bay, sheltered and good for swimming. Catherine got her last night at sea as a quiet restful anchorage. Into Argostoli the next morning where we are now on the town quay. The capital of Cephallonia the town is busy but provides anything you may need. Totally destroyed in the 1953 quake it has been rebuilt sympathetically. Many people emigrated from the island after the quake as they lost everything and so soon after the destruction of the war but they seem determined to build a good life here. Sadly the quay side has cracks in it which occurred this year with another small quake. The problem of living on an active area. A great tourist attraction in the harbour is a group of 5 turtles encouraged by food from the fisherman and they will put on a great display.
Catherine leaves us here and our next crew, Keith and Irene are due in soon as we begin our route back north to our lift out
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